Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey: How I stole a day amidst my work trip

I remember making vacation plans for Kerala with my parents. But that didn’t work out. I remember making plans with my friends, but that didn’t work out either. Kerala was slowly turning out to be Goa for me (you are definitely from India if you got that joke!). But thankfully my husband took me on the most luxurious road trip to Kerala and I finally broke the spell! The Kerala backwaters of Alleppey were unfortunately not part of the plan, because we both had limited vacation days from work. So we promised ourselves to come back because we anyway missed out on visiting so many other places!

Fast forward to one of my work trips when I was travelling to every state in India, I finally had a trip to Trivandrum planned. Like always I had an extra day on my work trips just in case an unscheduled meeting could be fixed, or I have to network with someone. Thankfully my boss never had a problem with this as those extra days anyways worked in our favour! 

After finishing my work in Trivandrum, I had a half-day visit to Cherthala so I hopped on to the train and reached the sleepy town around midnight. You can read about my misadventures and how a colleague helped me there in my article Humans of Kerala. I completed my visit and had no other option to return to Kochi to fly back to Ahmedabad. I suddenly remembered the promise I made to myself and a quick google map check fueled my wanderlust and I had a sudden urge to visit Alleppey which was only 45 minutes car ride away. And that is exactly what I did – stole a day amidst my work trip to visit the Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey.

So what is Kerala Backwaters and why did I want to visit them so badly?

Imagine palm and coconut trees swaying on the bank of endless canals and lagoons, imagine canoe boats going about their day on the calm waters, imagine the sun setting overlooking the paddy fields.

This is exactly the scene from the tranquil Kerala backwaters of Alleppey. 

Backwater is the water turned back in its course by an obstruction on opposing current or the flow of the tide or river channel or across the river bar. Backwaters in Kerala is fresh river water that comes down from the river and is then used for the paddy fields. This water, later on, merges with the ocean.

Are backwaters present only in Alleppey?

Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey are the most popular ones with the tourists so it may come as a surprise that Kerala Backwaters actually stretch across the entire Malabar coast. Estimated to cumulatively cover around 900kms, backwaters have been a backbone of Kerala state for centuries as they have been used as a transport network for agriculture, fishing, and means of travel for the local communities. 

This tranquil tropical paradise of Kerala has backwater networks all over the state, including in the south and north. Some of them include – Kuttanad, Kumarakom, Cherai Island, Kochi, Kottayam, Kozhikode, Thiruvanathapuram, Thrissur and many more.

However, the Kerala backwaters are those found in and around the coastal city of Alleppey and that is why Allepey is the gateway to the Kerala backwaters. Alleppey, also known as Alappuzha with its coastal setting and sparkling tranquil backwaters, has been nicknamed as the “Venice of the East”.

My experience at Kerala Backwaters Alleppey

Since I was spending the evening and the next morning in Alleppey, I wanted to make the most of my time. I did not want to choose an accommodation that was far from the backwaters and spend time going back and forth. Though there are many Kerala Backwaters resorts and Kerala Backwaters houseboats, I chose a homestay right on the backwaters to relax and unwind. A member from a Facebook group I am a part of had recently visited and that’s when it hit me to choose this place!

A quick call to the host – Divyashree and after confirming the availability she asked me to be dropped to a point (I do not remember the name). I was not sure how I would reach the homestay but she assured me there will be someone to pick me up! So I sat back and enjoyed the countryside full of swaying paddy and cormorants basking in the sun’s glory.

The car stopped and the car driver in his heavy Malayali accent informed me that we had reached. I unloaded my bag and tried calling Divya. A man in a starched white shirt and blue checkered lungi called me ‘Madam, Madam’. I ignored thinking he probably wants to sell something as I look like a tourist. Then he said something and I heard ‘Divya madam’. And it clicked that he had come to pick me.

 My call with Divya connected till then and she described the same person and so I signalled ‘ok’ and started walking towards where he pointed. I walked on a narrow pathway that had a wall on one side and water full of hyacinth on the other side. I reached a small jetty where he asked me to wait and something about other guests. I waited while wondering how am I going to reach the homestay and how much time will it take. 

A few minutes and 2 international guests later I boarded a wooden canoe boat with our luggage. I was honestly scared if the boat could handle the weight of 3 guests, a boatman and 5 bags. The boat was super narrow and the water was more than halfway up the boat. The boatman rigorously canoed with his wooden paddles once on the right and then on his left. I contemplated removing the camera from my bag and gave into the temptation of the breathtaking landscape.

The boatman exchanged pleasantries with almost every other boat that crossed us till he slowed down near an orange house. He carefully parked the canoe and helped me de-board the boat with my luggage. Divya welcomed me into her house and made me comfortable in the room.

I was not tired so I just soaked in the view sitting on her home’s parapet watching the boats go by while she served me tea. We chatted for a bit and she asked me if I wanted to go to the Alleppey town with her but I just wanted to relax here. She offered me a personal canoe ride and I jumped in joy to check the backwaters more personally.

Personal Canoe Ride in Alleppey

At 4 pm, the boatman arrived with an even sleeker canoe that had a mattress and shade. He offered me to go to the lagoon and the ride would be close to 90 minutes. I hopped in capturing different visuals of the everyday tranquil life of Allepey.

• There were tiny and big houses all around the lanes and by-lanes of the backwater. Every house had one or two boats parked outside just like we have a bike or car. 
• Small kids rowing their boats in school uniform with their school bags returning from school.
• Women with their boats filled with groceries go back home after shopping.
• Vegetable vendors with their boats full of fresh agricultural produce.
• An elderly lady is fishing in the backwaters and a pot is ready by her side with cut vegetables. How fresh can that meal be?
• A church 
• A coconut vendor selling coconuts to tourists in boats!

The soothing greenery was slowly braking with the presence of huge houseboats as we approached exiting the lagoon. The sheer size of them and blaring music made me uncomfortable. I saw a family in one of the houseboats watching TV!

I asked my boatman to take me back to quieter by-lanes which wouldn’t fit these houseboats and we took a U-turn. It was almost time for sunset and he assured me of a good sunset. So he parked the boat and showed me some paddy fields. Indeed a good sunset.

I came to the house, and the host was ready with dinner. The other guests and I ate a home-cooked traditional meal on the banks of the backwater while the windchimes chimed in some distance.

I spent some time photographing Divya’s dogs and spent a good night.

The next morning was spent on the banks, relaxing in a hammock watching the boats go by, happy to have made a good choice of choosing a local homestay over luxurious hotels or houseboats.

Things to do in Kerala Backwaters

I have heard of many people getting a bit bored as there is not much to do other than enjoying the pristine backwaters. Hence people chose Alleppey for a 2-day trip. From my experience these are the things to do in Alleppey other than boating:

• Photography: there are ample ways of photography – people, landscape, street (I mean water)
• Birdwatching: In my very limited time I saw at least 8 birds around my homestay.
• Village walk: Walk in the lanes behind the backwaters and explore the countryside like never before
• Ayurvedic Massage: there are many ayurvedic massage and leg spa centres.

Planning your own trip or choosing Kerala Backwaters tour packages?

I always feel it is cheaper to plan and book your own trip. Explore Kerala Backwaters like never before by planning your own itinerary, just like I did!

Best time to visit Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey

The most common question asked is -’Is it safe to go to Kerala Backwaters in monsoon’. The answer is No. Kerala is the first state in India where the monsoon sets in and it last for 4 months. The rains are pretty severe and over the last few years, there have been instances of floods. Though one may plan to go, it is best to avoid Kerala in monsoon. Winter is the best season to enjoy Kerala.

Reaching Kerala Backwaters of Alleppey

Kochi is the nearest airport for backwaters of Alleppey and situated at a distance of 55 km. Alleppey can then be reached by car.

Choosing the right accommodation in Alleppey

It may be difficult to choose from the plethora of hotels, houseboats and cruises in Alleppey. My suggestion is to go for a homestay. I stayed at Nomad’s hostel which can be booked through Airbnb.

Why choosing a houseboat on Kerala backwaters is not a sustainable choice?

While Kerala backwaters tourism thrives and advertises about its houseboats, here are a few reasons why avoiding them completely or choosing them carefully is important!

• While houseboats (traditionally known as kettuvallam) have been around for a long time, they have turned them into these Kerala backwaters luxury cruises which have nothing cultural or traditional in them. Some of them are as big as three storeys! 
• These houseboats are run by big companies which offer an ‘intimate Kerala’ experience but rarely hire the locals.
• These houseboats run on diesel, creating noise and emitting fumes polluting the otherwise pristine water and air. 
• Most houseboats dump the toilet waste and leftover food waste in the water. Mind you this water is used for all daily rituals like washing, cleaning, bathing and even fishing by the locals! This pollution is causing a huge impact on the local community. 

As responsible tourists, it is important to be ethical towards the local community and not harm the environment. Thankfully,  the Kerala Government has set up new standards for houseboats which is classified on various factors of eco-friendliness and responsible tourism. Under the revised scheme approved by the state government, houseboats operating in the backwaters of the state will now be classified as Silver, Gold and Diamond.

Have you been on Kerala backwaters of Alleppey? Did you go on a houseboat? What was your experience like? Tell me in the comments below!

Read More Kerala Posts:

• Eravikulam National Park
• Periyar National Park
• Things to do in Munnar
• Places to visit in Thekkady
• Trekking in Yellapatty
• Things to do in Thiruvananthapuram

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