Last Updated on May 17, 2024 by admin
Wondering if it is worth traveling to Khiva, Uzbekistan? I answer the question with this perfect travel guide covering what to see in Khiva and best things to do in Khiva. This Khiva city guide also includes the history of Khiva, where to stay in Khiva and the best restaurants in Khiva.
While Samarkand and Bukhara were non-negotiable during my trip to Uzbekistan, there was a lot of debate if the week-long trip should be extended by 2 more days to include Khiva. Being far from the tourist route, Khiva is often given a miss and it takes some extra effort to include it in the itinerary.
Located 1000 km away from the capital city of Tashkent, on Uzbekistan’s border near Turkmenistan, I decided to include Khiva in the trip.
While everyone takes a Tashkent to Khiva flight on their second day of arrival in the country, I decided to keep it for the last. I booked myself a ride on a train in Uzbekistan and traveled from Bukhara to Khiva. This overnight train ride was quite exciting and comfortable.
Table of Contents
History of Khiva
Khiva, also spelled as Xiva, is a historic town located in the western part of Uzbekistan, in the Khorezm region.
Khiva’s origins can be traced back to the 6th century when it was founded as a small oasis settlement along the Silk Road. Its location made it an important trading hub for caravans traveling between Asia and the Middle East.
By the 10th century, Khiva had become a well-established town and was known for its advanced culture and scientific achievements.
By the 18th century, the once most important slave-trading town on the Silk Road fell to the raids from neighboring tribes and bands of criminals.
Today, Khiva is recognized for its exceptionally well-preserved Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
ALL ABOUT ITCHAN KALA AND TIPS TO VISIT
Khiva is popular for its walled inner town known as Itchan Kala (Ichan-Qаl’а). Itchan Kala is famously also known as an open-air museum that houses over 50 historical sites and monuments. The monuments include a palace, mosques and minarets.
The inner town also houses over 350 residences and many restaurants, hotels, guesthouses and cafes.
Itchan Kala Entrance
Tourists are required to buy a ticket at the West Gate to enter the Itchan Kala. This ticket is essential to enter the monuments and visit the minarets. However, if you simply want to explore the old town monuments from the exterior, there are many free entrances. One can enter through the caravanserai as well.
Note that if you are a guest at any of the hotels/guesthouses in Itchan Qala, you don’t need to buy an entrance ticket for Itchan Kala.
Itchan Kala Timing
Itchan Kala is open 24X7 as there are many locals living in the old town. However, the monuments and places to visit in Itchan Kala open at 8 am and close around 6 pm.
Itchan Kala Entrance Fees
The Itchan Kala entrance ticket costs 150,000 som ($12) and is valid for two days. Payment can be made in cash (ideally) or card. This ticket allows entry to all the main attractions in Itchan Kala such as the monuments, museums, the city walls and the watchtower.
A ticket with QR code will be handed out and it will be scanned every time you want to enter any site. Hence, it is best to keep it handy.
The entrance to the Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum and Islam Khoha Minaret is not included in this ticket. It needs to be bought separately from the entrance of both the sites. Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum entry fee is 25,000 som ($2) while for climbing the Islam Khoha Minaret is an additional 100,000 som ($8).
BEST THINGS TO DO IN KHIVA (IN ITCHAN KALA)
Since all the things to do in Khiva are in Itchan Kala, here is the list of all the attractions in Khiva that are a must visit.
Photograph Kalta Minor Minaret
Standing tall at 95 feet, the Kalta Minor Minaret is also known as the “unfinished minaret” because it is only about a third of its intended height. It has quite a large diameter which was supposed to be only the base of the minaret. The minaret is covered with vibrant turquoise tilework with beautiful designs.
There are many legends as to why the minaret was left unfinished. The ruler of Khiva, Muhammad Amin Khan, hired an architect to build the tallest minaret in the area. But the architect had an agreement with the khan of Bukhara that once finished, he would build an even taller one for him. Muhammad Amin Khan found out and planned to kill the architect once he was finished, but the architect escaped before construction was completed. While another legend says that Muhammad Amin Khan died before the construction due to which the work stopped.
No matter what the legend is, the minaret looks beautiful at all times of the day.
Visit Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasah
Right next to the Kalta Minor Minaret is the Mohammed Amin Khan Madrasah. It was known as one of the largest madrasahs in Central Asia. This two-storied Islamic school has 125 rooms for 260 students which are now converted into hotel rooms.
This Madrasa has now been converted into a hotel known as the Orient Star Hotel. In spite of being a private hotel, tourists are allowed to enter the hotel and visit the central courtyard. I was jealous of the guests staying there who were happily sipping coffee inside a historical place.
Explore Kuhna Ark and the watchtower
The Kuhna Ark is a palace in Khiva, Uzbekistan. The yesteryear ruler, a Khan had his private harem, stables, barracks, mosque, and jail here. The Summer Mosque is open-air and covered in beautiful blue and white tiles. The walls around the mosque also have beautifully painted ceilings.
The large room that is directly ahead of the entrance is the throne room which is also worth checking out.
The steps to the watchtower are behind this throne room. The watchtower is popular to get the best view of the entire Itchan Kala.
I did not go to the watchtower, because I got a fantastic view from my hotel itself!
Pay respect at Juma Mosque
The Juma Mosque is the oldest mosque in Khiva and is also known as the “Friday Mosque”. The stunning woodwork makes this mosque a crowd puller in Khiva, Uzbekistan.
The Juma mosque has 218 wooden columns that support its low-ceiling wooden roof – a traditional Iranian concept. The pillars have simple yet beautiful carvings and each pillar is different from each other.
In the center of the mosque is an area open to the sky to let natural light come in which makes the mosque airy and well lit.
I was intrigued to notice a few holes in the walls. Those were purposely made to amplify the voice of the “Imam” during prayer.
Spend time at Islam Khoja Madrasah and Minaret
The Islam Khoja Minaret is the jewel of Khiva, Uzbekistan. It was the first site in Uzbekistan to be included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Built in the early 19th century, the minaret helped travelers find their way to the city as it could be seen from a distance.
It is located in front of the madrasa that bears the same name. An interesting fact about this architectural complex is that the madrasah was intentionally designed to be smaller than average while the minaret was intended to be the tallest minaret in Uzbekistan.
It is also one of the few minarets in Uzbekistan that allows visitors to climb to the top. It was closed for restoration and opened in early 2023 for tourists but when I visited in August 2023, it was closed. There was no guard to tell me why and till when.
Visit Pahlavon Mahmud Mausoleum
The Pakhlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum is not included in any of the entrance tickets, and tourists need to pay an additional 25,000 UZS to enter.
The mausoleum is dedicated to Pahlavon Mahmud, who was a revered 14th-century Iranian poet, writer and wrestler. This is a holy site where many professional Iranian wrestlers still pray to Pahlavon Mahmud before matches and many believers drink the holy water. It is believed that Pahlavon rescued locals from slavery.
The mausoleum and Pahlavon’s tomb dates back to the 14th century. Every inch of the interior of the mausoleum is covered in deep blue, turquoise and white tilework with intricate decorations and stunning chandeliers that hang from the ceiling.
Get mesmerized at Tash Khauli Palace
The Tosh-Hovli Palace (also called Stone Palace or Tash Khauli) is another palace in Khiva, Uzbekistan.
There are over 150 rooms and 9 courtyards inside this palace. The Khan had 5 wives and over 40 concubines. The wives lived on the left-hand side of the courtyard, and the concubines shared the rooms on the right-hand side.
The interior of the palace is full of blue tile work from wall to ceiling. Because of its size, it has many small entrances that lead to stunning courtyards.
Chase the Silk Road Statues
There are many statues in Itchan Kala that portray medieval social life in the region. The statues reflect historical events, ancient traditions, and the social life of the people of Khiva and surrounding regions during the Silk Road times.
Go looking for them as they are spread out over the entire area!
Explore Itchan Kala, Khiva at night
I honestly feel Khiva, Uzbekistan is more beautiful at night than the day. Of course the interior of the palaces and mosques look beautiful during the day, but the way the monuments around Itchan Kala are lit up after sunsets makes it look so stunning.
Compare yourself and tell me if I am wrong.
There are many cafes offering rooftop seating with the views of Itchan Kala. This is also one of the things to do in Khiva.
Shopping in Khiva Bazaars
There is no dearth of souvenirs in Uzbekistan and tourists will find most streets in Itchan Kala lined with shops. Anything and everything you want from the various crafts of Uzbekistan are available here. The ceramics, silk textiles, woodcarvings, jewelry, ceramics, carpets, bread stamps, keychains everything is available on street side shops.
DAY TRIPS FROM KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN
It is ideal to spend 2 days in Khiva – one day in Itchan Kala during the day and night and one day to explore the deserts of Uzbekistan and the gems it holds.
After all, more than half of Uzbekistan’s territory is covered by deserts named Kyzylkum and Aralkum and Ustyurt desert plateau.
Muynak Ship Cemetery and Aral Sea Ship Graveyard
Once upon a time, the Aral Sea was once the 4th largest inland salt sea in the world. However, the two river systems- the Amudarya and the Syrdarya that the Aral Sea depends on, were extensively irrigated to support cotton farming in the mid 20th century. The water flow began to decrease in the 1960s and by the year 2000, the sea lost 3/4 of its volume. This caused the water that was left to be too salty for fish or fauna to inhabit. Many fishermen lost their livelihoods.
The nearby town of Muynak which was once a major fishing port, was now over 100 miles from the water. Some of fishermen’s boats still remain which can now become the tourist’s spot.
Tourists can see the Muynak History Museum which has pictures on the thriving boats and happy life of fishermen as compared to the dry lake bed.
Muynak Ship Cemetery is 370 km away (one way) and takes about 6.5 hours to reach. It is best to leave very early in the morning, explore the area for 2 hours and come back late at night.
Khorezm Fortresses
A collection of 50 fortresses in the middle of Karakalpak Desert, the Khorezm Fortresses, are also called Ellik Kala. With some of these fortresses being a couple of thousand years old, they are listed as the Desert Castles of Ancient Khorezm on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
While only 20 of these fortresses remain, some of the must visit ones are Toprak Kala, Kizil Kala, Ayaz Kala and Jonobs Kala.
The fortresses are 100 km away from Khiva and tourists can visit a couple of them.
Note: Day trips can be organized by the hotel with a private car and driver.
WHERE TO STAY IN KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN
I would highly recommend tourists to choose an option in Itchan Kala rather than staying in the outer city or near the railway station. There are 2 advantages of choosing a hotel in Itchan Kala: everything is walking distance and another being you don’t need to pay an entrance ticket to enter Itchan Kala.
There are luxurious hotels, homestays and guesthouses to pick from. Here are my recommendations:
Luxurious Hotels in Khiva
Another madrasah that is converted into a luxurious hotel is New Star Hotel. However, this one is not inside the Itchan Kala but a mere couple of minutes walking distance. The Muhammad Mahram Madrasah converted into the hotel is a lovely property with all modern amenities.
It can be booked here
Polvonnazir Guest House is in the middle of Itchan Kala, practically a few steps away from the main sights of Khiva and many restaurants. The view from the balcony, where you will have your breakfast, is amazing. The rooms are also comfortable and cozy.
It can be booked here.
Mid-range Hotels in Khiva
I stayed here and I absolutely recommend it for the comfort as well as the view. The restaurant (where breakfast is served) is on the second floor with a view of the Kalta Minor minaret. There is another level with a terrace and if it is not cold and breezy, one can simply spend the evening here looking at the sky changing colours from blue to orange. The breakfast option is really good!
It can be booked here.
This family owner guesthouse is a great option for a stay in Itchan Kala.
It can be booked here.
Budget hotels/guesthouse in Khiva
It is a family-owned guest house in the center of the old city. Getting a budget guest house right in front of Kunha ark is a great option so I’d suggest going for it.
It can be booked here.
Another budget-friendly guesthouse, located in Itchan Kala near the East Gate. It’s conveniently located near the main attractions. The hosts speak in Spanish, English and Russian which is great!
It can be booked here.
WHERE TO EAT IN KHIVA
Being a vegetarian I was worried about the options of food since Khiva is a small town. But I was pleasantly surprised that most restaurants had a few options.
Recommended Read: Vegetarian Food in Uzbekistan
Street Food
Khiva being a small historical town there are no street food joints as compared to other cities. However, in the Kunha Ark courtyard, you may see locals making ‘non’ or the uzbek bread and manti (pumpkin dumplings). The tandoor is right on the side of the courtyard in front of Terrasa cafe. I tried the spiced Uzbek bread which was so much better than the normal bread I ate everywhere in Uzbekistan so it was a welcome change.
Seeing them make it and having it piping hot was an amazing experience. If you see them baking, go and buy them. They keep some for trying and you can buy them once you like it!
Tapas Restaurant
A rooftop restaurant with a view of Itchan Kala, this restaurant has many vegetarian options. I ordered the Shivit Oshi again and tried the lentil soup and since it was so soothing, I ordered a bowl of plain rice to go with it.
Terresa Cafe
Located in front of the Kunha Ark courtyard, this cafe is hard to miss. It gives a fantastic view of Kalta Minor minaret and a few other monuments from their terrace.
It is popular for drinks and food at sunset. While the food was not that great they have an entire page of vegetarian dishes. I tried their pumpkin soup, shivit oshi noodles and a veg platter.
Shivit oshi noodles are a Khiva specialty. It consists of green noodles which are infused with dill and served with a hearty stew of potatoes and carrots. It also comes with a side of tangy yogurt.
HOW TO REACH KHIVA
By Train
There is an overnight sleeper train that runs from Tashkent to Khiva. It stops at Bukhara and other cities and towns. I boarded this train from Bukhara at 9pm and reached Khiva the next day at 6am. It crosses through the desert and one can feel the desert dust in the train coach. The trains are extremely comfortable with beddings and space to store the luggage.
Train bookings open 2 months in advance and can be booked on the official train website.
By Flight
There are 2 flights everyday between Khiva (Urgench Airport) and Bukhara. This same flight hops to Tashkent. Run by Uzbekistan Airways, it is a 2 hours flight with a wait time of 30-45 minutes between the hopping. Snacks are not served or sold on this flight. So pick up something at the airport kiosk.
How to get around Khiva
The best way to get around the town is by foot. Choose a hotel in Itchan Kala or the inner wall city and everything is walking distance.
From the railway station, Itchan Kala is 7-8 minutes away which is a walking distance too. But to figure out which entrance to take can be tricky. Best is to hire a taxi. Although a bit expensive it makes sense to hire it if you have a lot of luggage (trolley bags).
Yandex app doesn’t operate in Khiva and one has to rely on these local taxis to get by.
You will also have to book a cab to Urgench airport as it is 45 km away from Khiva. Request your hotel/guesthouse and they will be happy to do it. We were charged UZS 1,50,000 ($12) for the one-way taxi to the airport.
PRACTICAL TIPS FOR A TRIP TO KHIVA, UZBEKISTAN
Best time to visit Khiva
The best time to visit Uzbekistan is during fall months September- October or spring months April-May. Being a desert area, Khiva’s tourist season is between September – October. I visited in August end wherein the tourists were still less but the heat was still extreme in the afternoon. The Evenings were pleasant and one of the two evenings I spent there was actually cold and breezy.
Money in Khiva
I had read about this before going which is why I carried cash to be safe. However there were some unexpected expenses due to which I ran out of cash. Since there are few ATMs in Khiva, I relied on USD. hotels accepts both som and USD as ongoing rate. The entrance ticket is best bought with cash in som. While the restaurants and cafes accept credit cards (mostly visa and not mastercard, for some reason).
What to pack for Khiva, Uzbekistan
There are many mosques and mausoleums in Itchan Kala which are the must visit places in Khiva Uzbekistan. Visiting these religious sites, tourists are required to cover their shoulders and knees as a respect. The afternoons are also hot while mornings and evenings are cool.
It is best to wear long and flowy dresses and keep a shawl/stole with you at all times to use as a cover for shoulder in case of a sleeveless dress or to cover the head when too hot or a warmer if it’s too cold. Cotton t-shirts and pants work the best for women and men.
Language in Khiva
Compared to Tashkent, most hotels and taxi drivers could speak English in Khiva. The souvenir store owners could get by with little English and Russian.
FAQs FOR THINGS TO DO IN KHIVA
Is Khiva worth visiting?
Yes! Khiva, Uzbekistan is a great destination for tourists especially because of its inner old town – Itchan Kala. With historical monuments and the desert it is an interesting UNESCO Heritage Site to visit . The accommodation, local travel and food is extremely affordable.
This is always a debate among travelers and when most of them decide to go, they don’t get the tickets. Since locals also use these trains and flights as mode of transport, it is difficult to keep track, as foreigners on booking train tickets. If sold out, one has to rely on the high cost of flight tickets.
How many days in Khiva?
Ideally 2 days! As most of the main tourist points can be easily covered in one day, the second day can be spent doing a day trip from Khiva.
Is Khiva safe for tourists?
Yes, Khiva, like the other cities in Uzbekistan, is very safe for solo travelers and women.
Getting a local guide in Khiva?
It is always better to get a guide as they can explain the history in depth and take you to hidden courtyards behind closed doors in Itchan Kala. A guide can be hired at the east gate where you buy the tickets. An English-speaking guide costs around $30 in total for 2 people, for a 3-hour tour.
While I did not encounter a guide inside Itchan Kala, you may be approached by locals posing as guides near Islam Khoja Madrasah who offer to show you around for $10 per person for a 3 hour tour.
Note: I did not get a guide and explore Itchan Kala on my own.
SUSTAINABLE TIPS FOR TRAVELING TO KHIVA UZBEKISTAN
- Carry your own refillable water bottle. Avoid purchasing PET water bottles unless absolutely necessary. Most restaurants and hotels have drinking water containers.
- Do not trash the heritage site with wrappers and uneaten food. Use designated areas and right-colored bins for disposing of waste.
- Be mindful of all the signs and follow them respectfully especially in mosques and mausoleums.
- Respect the ancient structures of mosques and other structures by not sitting on them.
- Respect the places which prohibit photography.
- Do not write on the pillars and walls of archeological sites and monuments.
I hope this blog on things to do in Khiva Uzbekistan helps you plan a trip to this beautiful and underrated town. Do you have more questions? Write to me in the comment below and I will reply.
Looking for more Uzbekistan Inspiration? Read Here
- Things to do in Samarkand
- Uzbekistan Travel Guide
- Tashkent Metro Stations
- Things to do in Bukhara
- Souvenirs to buy from Uzbekistan
- Vegetarian food in Uzbekistan
- Travelling by train in Uzbekistan
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